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NC Clutch Problem


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#1
jeeringtowser

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I have recently bought a 2006 NC to replace my written off NB.

My question is that the gear change only really works well if the clutch pedal is pushed into the carpet, I suspect that the clutch is on the way out.

My NB only required depressing half-way.

Is this normal?

The car has covered 63,000 miles, I have 6 months warranty and don't know whether to tackle the selling garage (non franchised) about this!

Any advice gratefully received.

Regards,

Chris. 



#2
Garffey

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It might be the slave cylinder.....or need a fluid change/bleed, my Mk3.5 has nearly 83,000 and its fine....so shouldn't think its the clutch unless a previous owner was a bit 'ham fisted' with it....


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#3
badman

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Is it the 6 speed box? 1st and 2nd gears were notoriously difficult to engage when cold. A change of gear oil helped to rectify this. Can't remember what grade but am sure someone will be along to say.
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#4
Kev5

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Hello, Chris - to answer your question, no it isn't "normal" to have to stand on the clutch pedal with excessive pressure.

 

I would start with the easy stuff first and the advice from Garffey and Badman is good - one of the oils that improves the shift quality, especially when cold, is Castrol Syntrans 75W, but there are other makes that are equally effective.

 

Also, if bleeding the clutch doesn't help, then take it back to the selling garage and politely explain that further investigation is necessary.

 

Some warranties will not cover wearing items like clutches, brakes or rubber components, but you should still talk to them first.


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#5
steveh

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The clutch pedal is to a certain extent adjustable, if for instance the pedal has too much free play then only the latter part of it's action will be involved in clutch disengagement.


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#6
jeeringtowser

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Is it the 6 speed box? 1st and 2nd gears were notoriously difficult to engage when cold. A change of gear oil helped to rectify this. Can't remember what grade but am sure someone will be along to say.

This is the 5 speed gearbox.
I don’t want to make a fuss with the supplying garage unless there is a potential problem
Regards
Chris

#7
Steveti

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It does tend to have a low bite point but having to stand on it as you describe seems a bit OTT. I would definitely have a word with the garage and at the very least get them to check both the slave cylinder and if not, make an adjustment on the pusrod between pedal and master cylinder, a shit of a job to do BTW unless you have the right facilities or are double jointed. If the car is warrantied they will potentially syte that a clutch is an item that can naturally wear and may impose the 'get out' clause but as part of your statuory rights the car needs to be fit for purpose, if you have trouble engaging gear then it isn't, ask them to at least inspect the slave cylinder and try and try an adjustment. They may say it can't be adjusted, some dealerships even state this but it is bollco cks.

 

If you want, PM me with an e mail address and I can send you the pdf for clutch adjustment strraight from the Mazda Workshop Manual.

 

Hope this is of some help.

 

As an addendum to the above it is at this mileage worth changing the gearbox and diff oil as a matter of course, gearbox oil is am MT90 75W-90 GL4, Castrol Syntrans is excellent for a standard car, for the diff you will need a 75W 90 GL5, it is important to use the GL4 in the box and GL5 in the diff, GL4 has additives that are not great for brass/phospor bronze. I dropped my transmission oils at relatively low mileage , around 12k miles IIRC and they genuinely needed it done.


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