It does tend to have a low bite point but having to stand on it as you describe seems a bit OTT. I would definitely have a word with the garage and at the very least get them to check both the slave cylinder and if not, make an adjustment on the pusrod between pedal and master cylinder, a shit of a job to do BTW unless you have the right facilities or are double jointed. If the car is warrantied they will potentially syte that a clutch is an item that can naturally wear and may impose the 'get out' clause but as part of your statuory rights the car needs to be fit for purpose, if you have trouble engaging gear then it isn't, ask them to at least inspect the slave cylinder and try and try an adjustment. They may say it can't be adjusted, some dealerships even state this but it is bollco cks.
If you want, PM me with an e mail address and I can send you the pdf for clutch adjustment strraight from the Mazda Workshop Manual.
Hope this is of some help.
As an addendum to the above it is at this mileage worth changing the gearbox and diff oil as a matter of course, gearbox oil is am MT90 75W-90 GL4, Castrol Syntrans is excellent for a standard car, for the diff you will need a 75W 90 GL5, it is important to use the GL4 in the box and GL5 in the diff, GL4 has additives that are not great for brass/phospor bronze. I dropped my transmission oils at relatively low mileage , around 12k miles IIRC and they genuinely needed it done.