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mysterious knocking

13K views 28 replies 9 participants last post by  MX5_Owner  
#1 ·
Help. my mx5's developed a rather loud knocking noise emanating from the front. the best explanation i can think of is that it sounds like a bracket holding something on has come loose/off and something's swinging back and forward making the knocking noise. enlisted the help of steveti in searching for something loose but came up short (exhaust, suspension and all the underside feels solid). Has anyone else encountered a similar noise or know of a likely culprit for such a noise? Would take it to a garage, but due to the hours i'm working at the moment that's out of the window for the next couple of weeks.
 
#2 ·
Would help to track down if we knew when it happens, speed, steering (full lock, straight etc), cornering, that sort of thing
 
#4 ·
No, no spanners in the bonnet:eek: the knocking seems to be more prominent when i'm holding a steady speed on a rough bit of road although i still hear it intermittently on a nice smooth bit of road, hear it both whilst with full lock and straight. oh, and nothing in the boot either :D
 
#8 ·
Front drop links or ARB bushes. The drop links on Mk3 are ball joint type...it only takes one ball joint to be minutely loose in it's socket that it creates knocking....exactly when you describe.

Quick way to check....wheel off, axle stand on sill put a jack under the lower A arm ball joint and jack up so it compresses to the point it's just taking weight of car. Get some one to rock the car and the other person hold the drop link...if it's knocking you will feel it. Do that on both sides. On the drop links there is a ball joint at each end of each drop link - making four in total.... it just takes one of them to be a bit loose to create a nasty amplified noise.....
 
#10 ·
Front drop links or ARB bushes
gave the drop links a good yank whilst investigating the other day but will nip up to the car park at work tomorrow and try giving them a tightening. know what size spanner off the top of your head? if not i'll just take the whole spanner roll up with me
 
#11 ·
I'll just go to cage and check...:thumbsup: you need two hands mind.....you need allen key to hold the spindle and a spanner to tighten nut..

But......Tightening them won't make a difference...if the ball is loose (ie it's lost it's packing grease) then it's knackered. They onoy cost ÂŁ10 each from Euro car parts. If you replace one, you need to replace both. It's a ten minute job to replace each...
 
#13 ·
damn it. on the plus side i hope it is the drop links as that'll be a cheaper fix than most. Can even fit them whilst fitting my new back box :D
 
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#14 ·
For the top ball joint (that connects to the ARB) you will need a 15mm spanner and a 4mm allen key
For the lower ball joint you will need a 14mm spanner and a 3mm allen key.
All of which i have at work. Nice!
 
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#15 ·
The symptons you describe sound like the drop links....they are cheap and easy to replace. Is the sound louder on the straight over even slightly bumpy ground? I suspect it is...if it is, it is more likely drop links.

If it's more pronounced on full lock...it is definitely not drop links...and could then be the ARB bushes

If you don't have a friend to rock the car...it's no bother to take them off. The ball joints should be REALLY stiff in their sockets. If one or more is not really stiff....ie it is easy to move then that is knackered....and is what is likely causing the noise.
 
#17 ·
On the same subject but a different Mazda. Would this be the same on a 323f? Anyone know?
Could well be - if those drop links are ball joint types. Whip a wheel off you will soon be able to tell. Just had a quick look and theya re the same type of ball-joint drop links.

This might help Cinq :thumbsup: > http://www.club323f.com/?page_id=1177

Though....sawing them off as above is a last resort if the threads are completely rusted. WD40 or similar and wait 20 mins... is better :)
 
#18 ·
Could well be - if those drop links are ball joint types. Whip a wheel off you will soon be able to tell. Just had a quick look and theya re the same type of ball-joint drop links.

This might help Cinq :thumbsup: > http://www.club323f.com/?page_id=1177

Though....sawing them off as above is a last resort if the threads are completely rusted. WD40 or similar and wait 20 mins... is better :)
We certaily tried the droplinks, even with a lever on them to try and get movement on tbem, D/Ls being the prime suspects but in fairness we were more looking for the usual broken link.
Changing the back box Chels will give an ideal opportunity to check more thoroughly if you dont find anything beforehand.
 
#19 ·
Chels,
When you fitted the Eibachs, did you tighten the front suspension up while the car was jacked, or was it all tightened with the suspension compressed eg on a ramp but resting on the wheels? If you did the former, it's a no no as it twists the bushes, and can lead to clonks. Check for them too.
Common error made in dealers...or was.
 
#21 ·
we had a similar problem with madams Mondeo, there was a knock/rattle on bumpy roads. after extensive searching underneath, under the bonnet, in the boot, under the seats i found nothing.

took it to a friends garage where it went up on the lift, turns out it was a broken brake pad on the inside causing the rattle. never thought to look there, quick ÂŁ40 fix.
 
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#22 ·
Chels,
When you fitted the Eibachs, did you tighten the front suspension up while the car was jacked, or was it all tightened with the suspension compressed eg on a ramp but resting on the wheels? If you did the former, it's a no no as it twists the bushes, and can lead to clonks. Check for them too.
Common error made in dealers...or was.
my pal who fitted them is aware of this particular faux pas.

I haven't been able to get a good look at the drop links but with full lock i could get a grip on it. how much movement should there be on the ball joints? When i grip the rod i can turn it through about 10 degrees.
 
#23 ·
my pal who fitted them is aware of this particular faux pas.

I haven't been able to get a good look at the drop links but with full lock i could get a grip on it. how much movement should there be on the ball joints? When i grip the rod i can turn it through about 10 degrees.
That's normal - it's under tension so you will not be able to feel slackness but you should be able to do that. You need someone to rock the car whist holding them. A loose ball joint will be apparent.

You can't tell a loose ball joint unless you rock the car...or whip them off..... if the ball joints are really stiff to move they are fine...if they move easily, they are worn.
 
#25 ·
Well, fitted new stainless exhaust today, then got stuck in about the drop links. the top nut on both drop links were solid (had to grind them off), new ones fitted. went for a drive, no knocking noise:thumbsup::thumbsup: cheers for all the help, especially Hamish for the diagnosis and steveti for the hand and use of the facilities and extensive arrayof tools. If apple has an app for that, steve has a tool for that. Exhaust sounds tasty too
 
#26 ·
Well, fitted new stainless exhaust today, then got stuck in about the drop links. the top nut on both drop links were solid (had to grind them off), new ones fitted. went for a drive, no knocking noise:thumbsup::thumbsup: cheers for all the help, especially Hamish for the diagnosis and steveti for the hand and use of the facilities and extensive arrayof tools. If apple has an app for that, steve has a tool for that. Exhaust sounds tasty too
Nice one glad its sorted.....well done guys...thats why I love this site :thumbsup: